Xbox Adaptive Controller joystick ports (X1 and X2 inputs on back) are detecting false...

Hello Jim Bigony,

Greetings!



Thank you for posting in Microsoft Community.

Based on the description, you are having issue with Xbox Adaptive controller that was set up using the arcade type controller which is the Axis 1 Pro. Let us check and see on what we can do to help address your concern in a timely manner.

The issue you are describing is more complex than what we have expected, and we truly appreciate for trying some troubleshooting steps in your end. The other option that we can try is contacting device manufacturer for your Axis-1 Pro controller because they might have updated the driver for the device. We will also try to consult this to our internal support team to get further assistance. We will get back to you once we receive updates.



We look forward to your response. Kindly let us know, if there is any misunderstanding or clarifications of our description by sending us a reply.

Sincerely,

I found the solution from a YouTuber, here is the answer for future reference if anyone else has this issue:

The X1/X2 TRRS jacks detect if a plug is connected. No plug connected and it ignores any input from those ports. When you plug a cable into the X1/X2 jacks, the XBOX AC starts trying to read analog values.

Analog sticks (potentiometers) are voltage dividers. The XBOX "sends" 0V (VSS/GND) and 3V (VCC) and "listens" for the selected voltage -- if the stick is at the mid point, that will be around 1.5V. So, as you swing the stick along the axis it goes from a measured voltage of around 0 to around 3.

When you plug in a TRRS cable without anything connected, the XBOX AC starts reading, sees no voltage, so believes that the stick is swung all the way along one axis. (Left/Right/Up/Down are often inverted, so zero means far right, 3V far left -- it all depends on how things were wired up.)

At this point, you've likely gone "Ah-ha!" -- I'm getting full left/right up/down readings because there isn't a valid voltage, so it swings to the limits. It's not that the stick is sending something -- it's because the stick is sending nothing.

Your issue is most likely a wiring problem -- something got loose. Could be any one of (or all) of the Ground, Voltage, or Wiper wires. A loose or broken wire will mess up the voltage divider and cause the XBOX AC to read "limits" values.

While it's possible the potentiometer in the sticks has gone bad, I consider that far less likely. X1/X2/LT/RT issues are almost always wiring related.

-Ron

...thanks for replying. Jim

Hello Jim Bigony,

Thank you for patiently waiting.

We would like to ask if you have contacted already the support for your device manufacturer to check for driver updates availability for your device?

We look forward to your response. Kindly let us know, if there is any misunderstanding or clarifications of our description by sending us a reply.

Sincerely,

Hello Jim Bigony,

Thank you for sharing the detailed information on how to identify the root cause of the problem and how it was solved. Indeed, it was worth sharing the troubleshooting steps here in community forum because this will also be visible to others who encountered the same problem and seeking resolution of the problem.

If you have other concern related to Xbox product and services, feel free to create a new topic to discuss and we are more than happy to help.

Thanks again for choosing Microsoft. Stay safe!

Sincerely,

Hi Ezra,

thank you for your thorough answer. I won't tinker with the XAC hardware to alter the resistor range - that would also void the warranty of the device.

According to the XAC information found here (link), input ports X1, X2, LT and RT all accept analog inputs. X1 and
X2 is mapped to forward/backward as default. The analog feature of X1 and X2 may therefore come in handy for some games so the user doesn't have to use e.g. a joystick for in-game movement.

I will contact StealthSwitch for information regarding their hardware. But as I found during my tests, the analog ports need a potentiomer in the 200kΩ range to get full throw. However, StealthSwitch may have
an option for arcade buttons as a foot pedal cannot be used for the setup I´m builiding.

I still have one question: Do you know if the resitor range of the analog input ports is something that may be altered using e.g. a firmware update or similar in the future to accommodate different types of external hardware? This would be handy for the
arcade buttons I've described previsouly as this commodity hardware is very cheap (6 $/button) in comparison to e.g. hardware from StealthSwitch.

Thanks for helping out