Mitsubishi Engine Build

I'm trying to figure out engine upgrades. I wasn't happy with the auto upgrades so I went through all the categories trying to understand how each thing worked and tested them out one by one. Here's how it went:

Class C Mitsubishi Build #1:

1. Stripped it down to all stock parts.

2. Conversion, switched out stock engine for more horsepower. Two options were turbo rally engine with 163hp or 3.7L V6 with 103 hp. I put the V6 in cause I wanted to see wait on the turbo as it will raise your class quickly.

3. Wheels. Level one upgrade on tire compound, level two upgrade on tire width front and rear. I immediately stopped sliding out and braking was greatly improved. Less width in the front felt faster with some steering sensitivity but I went for more control.
My lap times were consistently better. Increasing rim size lowered traction so I stayed with stock.

4. Brakes. Right off the bat, level three upgrade. Can't play without it.

5. Handling. Both anti roll bars level two. Roll cage to level 2 saving weight, the full roll cage doesn't offer enough stability to worry. Would love to put springs on but super charger from swapped engine puts me at maximum class points.

6. 499 points. One point left for class C. Only available engine upgrade was level one inter cooler which actually gave enough acceleration to boost my lap time.

Next I will remove the supercharger to see if regular engine upgrades will work out better.

:)

 

Engine Upgrades

1. I have chosen the mitsubishi eclipse. All engine parts have been returned to stock. I will do an engine swap to start out as this will start things off with a more powerful engine with extra horsepower.

 

Ghosts Hacked Lobby!!

"It's the same engine just upgraded as per usual with COD."

Why would anyone build a whole new engine for a game console that hasn't changed it specs???

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your not gonna find 10x more speed by magic.

 

Class C Mitsubishi Build Adjustment:

1. Two types of super chargers came with the V6 engine. I adjusted to the lower of the two which opened up some class points.

2. Springs. Make all the difference in the world. Allow you to hold a faster line around long curves and make better turns overall. Would love to have level 2 but I went with level one so I could tweak the engine.

3. Coolers. Level 2 intercooler and level 3 oil cooler gave me the biggest horsepower boost.

With this adjustment I shaved a full second off my lap time. Springs appear t be your best friend. And the coolers add nice horsrpower.

 

What we could do is, as an Xbox forums community, all pick the same car and all attempt to tune it to a specific class to see what works the best. There are a multitude of ways to tune a given car so this would be a pretty cool exercise and would allow us
to learn from each other.

 

Sure. That's why I did it. I was like, I'm just gonna go through every singl upgrade and learn what it does.

 

Cool, man. I'll try to remember to tune this car ans see what I can come up with too.

 

I tuned 5th and6th gear to higher acceleration improving my laptime almost a full second. Still need to play around with this, I'm not sure if I'm doing it right.

 

I'll try to get on tonight after work and fool with this car to see what I can come up with. I'll post my results and be more than happy to share, if it turns out ok.

I've not had this game that long though and am still building my cash flow. I'm only a little over $3 mil at this point and don't have an R class car (well, aside from the Atom) so I'm still being frugal.

 

Crunch showed me this and it works well...for me. When buying parts always buy the ones that light up all green first. Some engine upgrades help your handling and some only help top speed etc. Always get the one's that light up all green first.

 

I had to find it but here is the link where he talks about it.

http://forums.xbox.com/xbox_forums/xbox_one_games/e_-_k/forza_motorsport_5/f/4092/t/1670650.aspx

 

Yes - first engine parts to use are the ones that increase HP and improve handling/braking. After that you should be picking the ones that add the most HP for the least PI. Typically you should probably be staying away from ever upgrading cams - unless you're
going very far away from the starting PI or building for a special, specific scenario.

 

I generally use the handling upgrades first , then go with power . Just improving the handling can take a fair amount of time off a lap .

 

I've been doing that for a long, long time. Among them, the exhaust is great because it reduces weight.

 

There all kinds of what I would call "common sense" tuning tricks. Doing upgrades to the engine that also helps improve handling and braking (incidental to weight reduction) is a common sense upgrade. Another common sense upgrade would be, and I forget what
it's called but, the engine upgrade that increases HP and the engines red line but doesn't do much to increase to torque but this one is used at specific times. A great example would be a muscle car build meant for top speed as these cars tend to have high
torque and lower HP. HP is necessary for top speed and torque facilitates faster acceleration. This upgrade, for a car with disproportionate torque/HP where the car is meant for top speed/long tracks, is a great selection. Yet another common sense upgrade
is to increase the rear tire width a bit on high HP front engine, rear drive speed tunes. For the cost of 4 or 5 PI you can accelerate through the turns a bit better and are a bit better off the line.