DO NOT BUY CONTROLLERS FROM MICROSOFT!!!

So I have been using the military camo controller that was made by microsoft and I was under the impression this device wold last. I received the gift after my first deployment from my parents and it meant a lot to me, it was like
my key back to the civilian lifestyle. About 2 days ago, the right bumper snapped off for no reason, I was in mid match and when I pressed it down, it completely fell off, the plastic snapped on it when i pressed down and it just loosely floated on the top
of the controller. So future reference, never buy a controller from microsoft, they will do nothing to help with the problem and then you are out $60+. -Robert

:)

 

Players using Mod Controllers in Bad Company, Battlefield 2 on 01/06/2013

Would you like to provide a link to Microsoft documentation that prohibits rapid fire controllers?

Microsoft licenses turbo controllers for use with the 360. Hori makes one, as do others. It is the responsibility of the game developers to account for turbo functionality in their game engines.

The only controllers not permitted on the Service (with one notable exception) are modified controllers and unlicensed controllers.

 

Xbox One controller stopped working

Usually if you get the same results when you try connecting the control via usb aswell as new batteries it means one of the 2 main circuit boards has become faulty in the controller.

Unfortunately microsoft will only replace controllers upto 90 days from original purchase, after 90 days you would have to replace it yourself as microsoft do not actually repair the controllers.

 

I've bought many. This just in, I've never had one quit working. My two DAY 23 controllers for the Xbox One are still working fine. (so that's over 3 years easy) If I started a thread it would be
BUY CONTROLLERS FROM MICROSOFT!

So... feeling the way you do, I think I'd quit the ambassadors. No point in promoting MS.

 

I don't think the quality is the best in regards to craftsmanship, but the actual feel and placement of all buttons is second to none.

 

"I received the gift after my first deployment from my parents and it meant a lot to me, it was like my key back to the civilian lifestyle."

Deployment? Civilian? If you've been AWOL from gaming for a while, there's a chance you *may* have been heavy handed with your controller! Perhaps you were in a high pressure environment, and simply forgot your strength. 'Military grade' Xbox controllers
don't break for no reason... I too had one of those Armed Forces controllers, but palmed it off to my nephew because of poor build quality (the fascia and face buttons looked faded after only a week).

By contrast, I'm *still* using my 2015-manufactured Lunar White controller which has only recently suffered from drift on the left stick (no doubt due to button-mashing the life out of Injustice 2). A good job I've got another factory-fresh Lunar White in
reserve, alongside a brand new One S controller that came packed in. It's worth remembering those Armed Forces controllers were first-generation design... a lot has changed since then (Elites notwithstanding).

 

We have an OP who's right bumper snapped, a reply about 'buying many,' yet 'never had one quit working'? Then pray tell....

What compelled you to. 'buy many'??

While yet another questions whether or not the OP even knows his own strength!?

The fact of the matter is that the X1 controller has gone through at least 3 manufacturing changes since launch. Day one to year 2 controllers has a flaw in the shell that will work loose causing either bumper pad to spring outwards, often breaking it.

I let my neighbor use my net to update his year 1 console and 'day one' controller, the console updated fine but would not run any BC game? Still don't know why???

So he wanted to go head and update his controller, which even though a day one wireless controller, took a cord?? Controller began the DL and... Then went dead never to work again Strike two!

We began to look over the batteries and.. Left bumper pad gives way?? Very weak shell. So i felt sorry for him and loaned him my spare. After he left, I paid GS a visit to get a P4 game and by chance got a good feel of some used controllers with various
model numbers. The best and strongest feeling with no clicking sounds coming from the shell when squeezed was a model 1697.

Yes you can squeeze the shell and remove/replace the battery cover of a used controller in a GS bag without removing it from the bag.

Poor Joe, sure hope his luck changes. He's a great neighbor.

 

Well, whaddya know? Even though I would NEVER recommend buying a "used" or preowned controller (those things are harbingers for bacteria), I do strongly recommend your recommendation of the controller model My interest was piqued by your advice, so I
grabbed the box of my [unopened] replacement Lunar White and the model number listed on the underside was: 1697!

Since I've been using it exclusively for 2+ years, I have no qualms about putting it aside and starting over with a new one. Also, OP doesn't state whether his "camo" controller was purchased new or if it might have been REGIFTED. *shudders*

 

Got 2 controllers when the console released.One for me & one for my nephew for when he comes around.

My one has been used everyday since & still works fine.

The other one has been used & abused by an over zealous 10 year old for a few hours every couple of weeks & has developed "stick drift".

I guess a lot of it is down to how you treat your controllers.

 

What was the model number of the controller you were "using for 2 plus years"?

Also people, remove your battery cover and batteries on your X1 controller and tell us your model number and whether or not it has to have a USB cord in order to update and also whether or not it makes a cracking sound when gently squeezed?

Just curious!

 

I told you in my earlier post! It was #1697, the very same model you were recommending

Also, I did as you requested and removed my batteries but I do not understand how doing this would produce a "cracking sound"? I also don't get the part about USB updating as I have *never* needed to update any of my controllers! They just seem to work "as
is" whenever I sync them. Oh, but I did notice a little greeting in the battery compartment that I've never noticed before:

HELLO FROM SEATTLE

What's this mean?

 

So both your controllers were model 1697. Great!

"I did as you requested and removed my batteries but I do not understand how doing this would produce a 'cracking sound'?" - OMG, well neither do I.

 

Same, My Day 1 still works, My Halo Still works, But the Elite is screwed as the rubber coating is now detached. Technically speaking I could still use the Elite thought the l1,l2,r1,r2 stick pretty bad, and of course no cover.

 

I don't trust 3rd parties (eg. 3rd party controllers made by Gh0bfei[hasrvfi or some company I don't know).

My 22/11/2013 Day One Xbox One controller is working fine still. My Xbox 360 slim console's wireless controller is working ok except the left analogue stick drifts like crazy, but I've had it since I joined Xbox way back in late 2010.

Consumer products do not last forever. They'll eventually fail.

All Xbox 360 and Xbox One controllers manufactured by Microsoft, are made out of PLASTIC, no surprise. Thankfully common-wealth English governments (UK/NZ/AU) offer a mandatory 12 month warranty on the Xbox One Elite controller,
under legislation which cannot be void by anyone incl. MS. NZ law dictates products be durable and reasonable fit for purpose and last a reasonable time. Australian law dictates contacts can't minimize consumer rights. US law dictates 90 days is acceptable
warranty period for a $200 controller......

 

Exactly, the official controllers are the best. I use the xb1 controller on ps4/ps3/360, this is all with the Cronusmax. I feel a bit burned with the elite falling apart since it was expensive, though the ergonomic design of the xb1 controller is a winner.
Currently the 2013 controller is on my ps3, the halo controller is on my ps4, the xb1 just uses both.