Constant problems with Xbox One S Gears of War console

DarkMongoose1 · Nov 13, 2017

Hi,

First time poster, I am having continuous problems with my console not syncing. when loaded the sync button does not even work, only during the consoles cold boot do I have a small window of time to press the button to get it synced. This however does not
always work and sometimes it just disconnects again. I have already had the concole swapped once by microsoft even though they did not tell me they were swapping it they simply said it had been repaired.

Any thoughts?

Cheers

:)

HowlingTiara640 · Nov 13, 2017

transferring ownership of game to another person

I purchased an Xbox one S. I gave my Xbox one console to my sister. I want to transfer ownership of Gears of War that came with original console. Can I transfer the game to my sister's account?

Skooby288 · Nov 13, 2017

Where are my promotional codes for the gears of war collection

I've purchased the gears of war xbox one s console which came with gears of war 4 ultimate edition code and with this code I'm suppose to receive the entire gears of war collection on Xbox 360 all my friends have received they're codes but I've
still not received mine?

18:34

Arminator · Nov 13, 2017

When you have syncing problems, is it possible that your controller has issues staying connected, and it's not the console? Could you test this theory with a second controller?

Also from my personal experience, sometimes the batteries are causing disconnection trouble.

So please also try these troubleshooting steps.

First of all, get a Micro USB cable that can transmit data (some USB cables for charging smartphones only have the power lines connected but not the data lines, so make sure it's a "real" USB cable and not just a charging USB cable). Remove the batteries
and connect the cable to the controller and the console. A controller connected to the console via USB cable not only binds/syncs to that console, but the controller also turns off it's wireless radio and transmits controller data via the cable, AND the cable
tries to charge the controller batteries. So make sure you have removed the batteries, otherwise non-Play&Charge-Kit batteries get very hot, start to smell and could explode or start a fire.

If the controller works flawlessly with the cable attached to the console, try the next step:

Use an USB power supply (e.g. phone charger) and connect that via Micro USB to the controller. Now the controller gets power more reliably from the USB charger instead of batteries, but transmits controller data wirelessly via it's radio. Does the controller
still lose it's binding/synchronisation? If so, you might have a lot of wireless interference (e.g. a lot of neighbours with WiFi, cordless phones, Baby Monitors, Microwaves running, or other wireless devices that interfere with your controller connection).

If the controller works flawlessly with the charging cable attached, try running the controller with batteries again.

If the controller acts up and loses connection again, then the batteries are faulty. For example rechargeable batteries only provide 1.2V power instead of 1.5V power like disposable batteries. Also rechargeable batteries drain "linearly", which means the
voltage curve of a rechargeable battery is like a constant slope going down, whereas the charge of a disposable battery stays "horizontal" for quite some time, and only at the end, when the batteries get really empty, rapidly drops.

So if you use standard AA rechargeable batteries (and not a rechargeable Play&Charge battery), even though battery testers show the battery as "half full" or "almost full", the power in that battery might not be enough anymore to power the controller properly,
causing it to lose the binding/synchronisation.

Also if possible, try your controllers on a friends console, and have your friend bring the console over, because if your friend lives in a house with less wireless interference, the controller working might not be connected to the friend console "working",
but to the radio interference being less.

DarkMongoose1 · Nov 1, 2018

When you have syncing problems, is it possible that your controller has issues staying connected, and it's not the console? Could you test this theory with a second controller?

Also from my personal experience, sometimes the batteries are causing disconnection trouble.

So please also try these troubleshooting steps.

First of all, get a Micro USB cable that can transmit data (some USB cables for charging smartphones only have the power lines connected but not the data lines, so make sure it's a "real" USB cable and not just a charging USB cable). Remove the batteries
and connect the cable to the controller and the console. A controller connected to the console via USB cable not only binds/syncs to that console, but the controller also turns off it's wireless radio and transmits controller data via the cable, AND the cable
tries to charge the controller batteries. So make sure you have removed the batteries, otherwise non-Play&Charge-Kit batteries get very hot, start to smell and could explode or start a fire.

If the controller works flawlessly with the cable attached to the console, try the next step:

Use an USB power supply (e.g. phone charger) and connect that via Micro USB to the controller. Now the controller gets power more reliably from the USB charger instead of batteries, but transmits controller data wirelessly via it's radio. Does the controller
still lose it's binding/synchronisation? If so, you might have a lot of wireless interference (e.g. a lot of neighbours with WiFi, cordless phones, Baby Monitors, Microwaves running, or other wireless devices that interfere with your controller connection).

If the controller works flawlessly with the charging cable attached, try running the controller with batteries again.

If the controller acts up and loses connection again, then the batteries are faulty. For example rechargeable batteries only provide 1.2V power instead of 1.5V power like disposable batteries. Also rechargeable batteries drain "linearly", which means the
voltage curve of a rechargeable battery is like a constant slope going down, whereas the charge of a disposable battery stays "horizontal" for quite some time, and only at the end, when the batteries get really empty, rapidly drops.

So if you use standard AA rechargeable batteries (and not a rechargeable Play&Charge battery), even though battery testers show the battery as "half full" or "almost full", the power in that battery might not be enough anymore to power the controller properly,
causing it to lose the binding/synchronisation.

Also if possible, try your controllers on a friends console, and have your friend bring the console over, because if your friend lives in a house with less wireless interference, the controller working might not be connected to the friend console "working",
but to the radio interference being less.
Click to expand...

I have two consoles, both the controllers I have work flawlessly with the other console. Controllers will not connect to the problem console even when plugged in. I have even moved my working console to the room where my dodgy console is and it works flawlessly
there so don't imagine there being interference problems.

DarkMongoose1

When you have syncing problems, is it possible that your controller has issues staying connected, and it's not the console? Could you test this theory with a second controller?

Also from my personal experience, sometimes the batteries are causing disconnection trouble.

So please also try these troubleshooting steps.

First of all, get a Micro USB cable that can transmit data (some USB cables for charging smartphones only have the power lines connected but not the data lines, so make sure it's a "real" USB cable and not just a charging USB cable). Remove the batteries
and connect the cable to the controller and the console. A controller connected to the console via USB cable not only binds/syncs to that console, but the controller also turns off it's wireless radio and transmits controller data via the cable, AND the cable
tries to charge the controller batteries. So make sure you have removed the batteries, otherwise non-Play&Charge-Kit batteries get very hot, start to smell and could explode or start a fire.

If the controller works flawlessly with the cable attached to the console, try the next step:

Use an USB power supply (e.g. phone charger) and connect that via Micro USB to the controller. Now the controller gets power more reliably from the USB charger instead of batteries, but transmits controller data wirelessly via it's radio. Does the controller
still lose it's binding/synchronisation? If so, you might have a lot of wireless interference (e.g. a lot of neighbours with WiFi, cordless phones, Baby Monitors, Microwaves running, or other wireless devices that interfere with your controller connection).

If the controller works flawlessly with the charging cable attached, try running the controller with batteries again.

If the controller acts up and loses connection again, then the batteries are faulty. For example rechargeable batteries only provide 1.2V power instead of 1.5V power like disposable batteries. Also rechargeable batteries drain "linearly", which means the
voltage curve of a rechargeable battery is like a constant slope going down, whereas the charge of a disposable battery stays "horizontal" for quite some time, and only at the end, when the batteries get really empty, rapidly drops.

So if you use standard AA rechargeable batteries (and not a rechargeable Play&Charge battery), even though battery testers show the battery as "half full" or "almost full", the power in that battery might not be enough anymore to power the controller properly,
causing it to lose the binding/synchronisation.

Also if possible, try your controllers on a friends console, and have your friend bring the console over, because if your friend lives in a house with less wireless interference, the controller working might not be connected to the friend console "working",
but to the radio interference being less.

I have two consoles, both the controllers I have work flawlessly with the other console. Controllers will not connect to the problem console even when plugged in. I have even moved my working console to the room where my dodgy console is and it works flawlessly
there so don't imagine there being interference problems.

Arminator

When you have syncing problems, is it possible that your controller has issues staying connected, and it's not the console? Could you test this theory with a second controller?

Also from my personal experience, sometimes the batteries are causing disconnection trouble.

So please also try these troubleshooting steps.

First of all, get a Micro USB cable that can transmit data (some USB cables for charging smartphones only have the power lines connected but not the data lines, so make sure it's a "real" USB cable and not just a charging USB cable). Remove the batteries
and connect the cable to the controller and the console. A controller connected to the console via USB cable not only binds/syncs to that console, but the controller also turns off it's wireless radio and transmits controller data via the cable, AND the cable
tries to charge the controller batteries. So make sure you have removed the batteries, otherwise non-Play&Charge-Kit batteries get very hot, start to smell and could explode or start a fire.

If the controller works flawlessly with the cable attached to the console, try the next step:

Use an USB power supply (e.g. phone charger) and connect that via Micro USB to the controller. Now the controller gets power more reliably from the USB charger instead of batteries, but transmits controller data wirelessly via it's radio. Does the controller
still lose it's binding/synchronisation? If so, you might have a lot of wireless interference (e.g. a lot of neighbours with WiFi, cordless phones, Baby Monitors, Microwaves running, or other wireless devices that interfere with your controller connection).

If the controller works flawlessly with the charging cable attached, try running the controller with batteries again.

If the controller acts up and loses connection again, then the batteries are faulty. For example rechargeable batteries only provide 1.2V power instead of 1.5V power like disposable batteries. Also rechargeable batteries drain "linearly", which means the
voltage curve of a rechargeable battery is like a constant slope going down, whereas the charge of a disposable battery stays "horizontal" for quite some time, and only at the end, when the batteries get really empty, rapidly drops.

So if you use standard AA rechargeable batteries (and not a rechargeable Play&Charge battery), even though battery testers show the battery as "half full" or "almost full", the power in that battery might not be enough anymore to power the controller properly,
causing it to lose the binding/synchronisation.

Also if possible, try your controllers on a friends console, and have your friend bring the console over, because if your friend lives in a house with less wireless interference, the controller working might not be connected to the friend console "working",
but to the radio interference being less.

Sephiroth055

I have the same problem, I bought the xbox one S gears of wars 4 limited edition and I still don't have the code for the Gears of wars collection ....

CrimpyCactus186

i have a x box one s gears of wars limited edition console with the remote gears of war plug in that cable to controller and it still don't work

AmonBlade99

me too i got my 2TB Xbox One S Gears of War 4 Limited Edition Console and that code was not in the box

Constant problems with Xbox One S Gears of War console